If you're like me and love the buzzing atmosphere of local markets then you're going to enjoy this post. Bac Ha Market is located in Northwestern Vietnam (near Sa Pa). It's the biggest market frequented by ethnic minority groups living in that region. The colorful diversity of Bac Ha Market is due to the women of different ethnic groups.
Most of the women are from the Flower H'Mong (also known as Red H'Mong). What distinguishes these women from other H'mong groups is their unmistakable color-drenched and extravagantly embroidered traditional clothing. They're absolutely beautiful! Women from the Black H'Mong group can also be seen with their heads wrapped in fluorescent tartan scarves. What's fascinating is that they still do dress this way. This isn't a tourist trap.
THE COLORFUL DIVERSITY OF BAC HA MARKET
The market is roughly divided into two sections. One section is targeted at tourists. Clean-cut stalls display an array of souvenirs. Some of the items are locally-made and locally-sourced. Prices are reasonable enough but bargaining is expected. The rest of the market is the most interesting. That's where the locals go.
You'll see ruffled chickens crammed into baskets, the sour-smelling raw meat section and a colorful fresh produce section. You can, also, have a bite to eat at one of the many stalls. If you make your way to the end of the market, follow a small dirt path leading up to where livestock is sold.
As you wonder around the livestock auction, you'll notice another type of auction taking place down below: the selling of dogs.
Those selling dogs for consumption at Bac Ha Market are for the most part the Black H'Mong women. They don't eat dog meat themselves but recognize the demand among other Vietnamese. Surprisingly, dog meat is the most expensive meat in Vietnam. It's fair to say that not all Vietnamese eat dog meat; it's mostly popular in Northern Vietnam.
When I asked a few why they ate it, they unanimously replied that it was very flavorful and extremely delectable. More importantly, eating dog meat brings good fortune. I was told by one guy that dog meat is only consumed at the end of the lunar month. It isn't served at any other time during the month fearing bad luck. Another benefit of eating dog meat is that it presumably increases libido in men. Go figure.
As a side note, if you want to avoid eating dog meat in Vietnam, stay away from places serving thit cho.
There's a bird market near the shallow lake. Vietnamese (and other Asian nationals) absolutely love owning tiny, caged birds. They treat them like prized possessions. Actually, some of the birds are quite expensive. Vietnamese are very superstitious and the birds are believed to bring good fortune. I guess it's better than eating dog meat.
I loved spending time at the colorful Bac Ha Market. It's definitely worth a visit. You'll get to see local life on so many different levels: locals busy purchasing all sorts of goods, Flower H'Mong women carrying their babies and groups of young girls giggling at foreigners. It's truly an amazing experience.
If you enjoy perusing local markets, then make sure to add Bac Ha Market on your trip to Vietnam.
Do you love local markets as much as I do? Any faves?
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41 Responses
Globe Guide
A colourful market indeed! I especially love the traditional dress of the women in your photos, so vibrant!
Megan Indoe
I seriously loved Sapa so much. I loved the local textiles, colors, and things you could buy. Thank goodness we didn’t have room in our bags otherwise I could have done some serious damage to our wallets! I ended up only leaving with a stack of bracelets from the Black Hmong family we stayed with! I have been aching to go back and experience the breathtaking views, amazing hospitality, and awesome shopping!
stephaniestraveldiary
I love the markets in SE Asia. I usually want to buy some interioir pieces, but because I cant carry it with me for months, I end up not buying it. Next time I should just send it home.
x
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
I totally understand! I usually carry everything but I’ve shipped a few things also. I decide depending on the value of the merchandise versus the shipping fees but I’ve also decided on not buying stuff even though I really wanted to. I always console myself by reasoning that I’m very fortunate to simply be traveling. 🙂
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
haha…..I know the feeling! The only thing that keeps me from buying too much is knowing I have to carry everything in my backpack for months on end. 🙂
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
I wanted to buy everything…lol! I made sure to know how dog meat was written in Vietnamese before we went. Although I don’t eat meat, I don’t mind eating chicken sometimes but in Vietnam I avoided it – I didn’t want to take any chances. 😉
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
Yes those artful pineapples are sold everywhere in Asia!
Clare Colley
It reminds me of a market I visited near Hue, though there wasn’t dogs or buffalo for sale there!!! I love the dress of the women it’s so beautiful. I hate going to the tourist markets but it’s great to see every day life in the local markets 🙂
Diana - MVMTblog
Reading all your posts about Vietnam is getting me so pumped to go. With regards to the dog meat, I actually just watched a documentary on Unreported World about dog thieves in Vietnam – there are people who go around stealing dogs to sell to butchers. They also covered a segment on why people would eat their own dog that they raised as a pet. It’s really interesting how some butchers will raise a pet dog that they love very much but their job is to slaughter dogs all day. It was tough for me to watch, but I’d recommend it as it was very insightful.
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
It’s difficult to get accustomed to when traveling in Northern Vietnam but I also found it fascinating how cultures can differ so much. I also read that there are more and more dog thieves in Vietnam as owning dogs as pets is now popular. :
Kristine AARSHEIM
Now as much as I don’t wanna be rude and offend anyone’s culture, I just can’t help but feeling sad when reading about the dogs… As a person who loves dogs I think I’d have a hard time being at that market. Must have been hard for you too, considering you don’t eat meat. But then again, in my country (Norway) they eat whale and reindeer, which definitely offended a lot of Americans when I told them about it.
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
Hi Kristina! It was very strange (and uncomfortable) to see but, like you said, in other parts of the world people eat all kinds of animals. It’s cultural and though I don’t eat meat, I find the most devastating part is how animals for consumption are actually treated (or I should say mistreated). This abuse applies to all livestock not just dogs. 🙁
Valerie CottageMakingMommy
This would be so fun to attend. There is nothing like handcrafted stuff.
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
The H’mong have such beautiful clothing and I just love handmade stuff also!