The Jewish Quarter in Budapest – From Ghetto to Outdoor Art Gallery

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I could't help it. Each time I saw yet another hollowed out construction site snuggled between two buildings, my step grew faster. I was on the look-out for telescopic cranes rising above the roofs, my ears on alert for their loud, rattling caw.

 

Under usual circumstances, these metal monstrosities would swiftly send me in the opposite direction. But, instead, I reveled in this urban exploration of the Jewish Quarter in Budapest which had gone from ghetto to outdoor art gallery.

 

Street Art in Budapest
Mural overlooking the garden at Mika Tivadar Bar

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

I had unearthed a revelation of sorts: street artists who eagerly claimed untarnished, newly unveiled walls as their own. The mega canvasses, left unattended, were an easy prey, like a defenseless gazelle is to a hungry lion. And just like the lion, street artists pounced on the chance to satiate their creative hunger.

Truth be told, as much as I got a kick out of scouting out these "hidden" treasures, coming across street art in the Jewish Quarter wasn't a rare occurrence. Once a walled ghetto, the Jewish Quarter has become in the past few years the eclectic, soulful cultural hub of Budapest and a magnet for all kinds of thriving artists and creatives from around the world.

 

I must say, I'm curiously attracted to disgruntled neighborhoods that have been morphed into artistic havens. I love how people come together to give neglected communities a new life infused with creativity, color and perhaps, unconsciously, a grain of hope.

 

Street Art in Budapest

 

Street Art in Budapest
"Living Space" - A collaboration of two Hungarian artists, FatHeat and Ciripp

 

But don’t be mistaken, the Jewish Quarter hasn’t fallen victim to gentrification. Despite its walls covered in edgy art, remnants of its ghettoized past remain. Walking along the dozen or so streets of the quarter, one can see dilapidated buildings interspersed with foul-smelling bars.

 

The area seems sketchy and it probably was, maybe it still is, but the Jewish Quarter is definitely undergoing a bold revival. As is often the case, such revivals are instigated by free-minded, creatively-inclined spirits and the Jewish Quarter of Budapest has certainly been graced with their talent, both locally and internationally.

 

See a detailed map of Budapest street art here

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary
Vibrant mural by Akacorleone

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary
"One Family Torn Apart By War Is Too Many" - Mural created for World Refugee Day 2014

 

 

Read also: A Crazy Medley of Street Art in Belgrade

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

As I wandered around the historical Jewish Quarter of Budapest, I had an epiphany: this former ghetto had successfully resurrected as an inspiring outdoor art gallery. Sure, it doesn't have the stature of fancy art galleries exhibiting exorbitantly-priced paintings. In actuality, it's much better than that. The Jewish Quarter is a place that welcomes eclecticism, celebrates self-expressionism and attempts to provoke mindfulness.

 

And, unlike those stuffy art galleries, all this eye candy was free!

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary
An homage to Ernő Rubik, the Hungarian man who invented Rubik's Cube

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

But behind the colorful facades lies a disturbing past. Before its presumed resurrection as an artistic hub of sorts, the Jewish Quarter was exactly as the name suggests: a quarter where Jews were kept confined against their will. The alienation of Hungarian Jews started in 1920 when the Hungarian Parliament put in a place a law limiting the number of Jewish students access to higher education.

 

Almost two decades later, "Jewish Laws" were implemented depriving Jews of the most basic human rights. Things only got worse from then on when in 1944, all Jews living in Budapest were gathered and forced to resettle in a newly-established fortified neighborhood, better known as the Jewish Ghetto. Jews weren't allowed to leave the ghetto for fear of being shot dead.

 

From December 1944 to January 1945, approximately 70,000 Jews lived in crammed apartments - reportedly up to 14 people per room - scattered in a mere 0.3 square kilometer perimeter, hardly enough space for such a large amount of people. During these horrifying six weeks, 10,000 Jews lost their lives. Although this took place nearly 75 years ago, the Ghetto has remained a place of commemoration especially to the international Jewish community.

 

The dilapidated buildings appear to have retained the scars of its disturbing past. Walking through the Jewish Ghetto brought forth conflicting feelings. On the one hand, as a street art aficionado, a silly smile was plastered on my face upon seeing the array of stunning murals. On the other hand, I felt a wave of grief come over me when thinking of what happened in this Ghetto turned outdoor art gallery.

 

It goes without saying that exploring the Jewish Quarter should be on everyone's agenda when visiting Budapest. Not only does it offer a lesson in history but also awakens the senses in more ways than one.

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary
This mural by Hungarian street artist, Richárd Orosz, encompasses all that is Hungarian

 

Street Art, Jewish Quarter, Budapest, Hungary

 

Have you been to the Jewish Quarter of Budapest? Where's the best place you saw some awesome street art?

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The Jewish Quarter of Budapest - From Ghetto to Outdoor Art Gallery

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2 Responses

  1. […] leaving Budapest feeling somewhat deflated, I had high hopes for the second city on our tour of the Balkans. The bus […]

  2. […] Read also: The Jewish Quarter of Budapest – From Ghetto to Outdoor Art Gallery […]

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