A Celebration at the Border of India & Pakistan

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. I will earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking on the link at no extra cost to you.

The Wagah border ceremony is a daily military practice that takes place at the India-Pakistan border near the village of Wagah. This iconic event has become a symbol of the longstanding rivalry between the two countries, as well as a popular tourist attraction for visitors from around the world.

The ceremony involves elaborate drills and displays of patriotism by soldiers from both sides, culminating in a dramatic lowering of the flags and closing of the gates at sunset. This unique ritual continues to captivate audiences with its blend of tradition, pageantry, and tension.

The celebration takes place at the Wagah border with India on one side and Pakistan on the other. It's the Border Security Force (BSF) that performs on the Indian side. Dressed in their official uniforms, heads topped with red plumed hats, officers of the Border Security Force get prepped every evening for the 'dance-off' as I like to call it. The official ceremony of the lowering of the flags, which started in 1959, is performed by India and Pakistan at the same time after sunset.

The 'dance-off' is a friendly exchange of acrobatic high-kicks and swift pirouettes while the band plays popping tunes. The choreography has soldiers on both sides defiantly showing off their most elaborate dance moves.

The very animated celebration incites attendees from each country to yell, roar and whistle in encouragement. The booing starts once the rival country takes the stage. The atmosphere was so infectious I even sang along in Hindi, haha. It was so much fun; I felt like I was attending a rock concert!

After almost one hour of theatrics and highly-skilled dance moves, it was time for each side to lower their respective flags and close the border gates. Suddenly, the previously raucous crowds went silent as a sign of respect. Once both flags were completely lowered, everyone rushed from the bleachers down to where the officers were.

People queued up to have their pictures taken with the officers as if they were celebrities. Surprisingly, the officers were very friendly. They smiled for the cameras and shook hands with everyone. It was so strange and incredible at the same time. This celebration at the Wagah border was a highlight of my trip in India!

It's important to mention there was a suicide bombing in November 2014 (just a few weeks before I went) on the Pakistani side. The bombing killed more than 50 people and injuring hundreds. I don't know how it's organized on the Pakistani side, but I can confirm that security is tight on the Indian side. To get to the actual border, I had to pass frequent check points, several metal detectors and manual pat downs (done by women for women).

The guards were so vigilant they even took away my friend's lighter to be returned after the celebration. Bags were thoroughly checked or taken away if they were bigger than the permitted size. The parking lot is about 2 km from the actual border preventing any sort of unauthorized vehicle from entering the premises. Everyone is obliged to make their way on foot to the border.

The thought of a threat did linger in the back of my mind but that subsided as soon as the crowds started to roar. My worries were drowned by the blasting music. Eventually, I was more excited than anything else.

If ever you're in Amritsar, or in the state of Punjab, don't hesitate to hire a collective taxi to take you to the celebration at the border of India and Pakistan. The experience was like no other!