Cruising Along the Backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala

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Cruising along the backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala is on most travelers' wish list including mine. The backwaters refer to an extensive network of canals and lakes covering almost half of the state of Kerala.

 

Taking a few days to slowly drift along the canals on a traditional kettuvallam is as good as it sounds. I decided to go to Alleppey (also known as Alappuzha) to partake in this leisurely activity.

 

Cruising Along the Backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala

 

Hundreds of house boats line the shores of Alleppey, a sign of just how popular cruising the backwaters really is. Cruises on house boats offer lodging (private room) and meals as a package. Prices generally start at about $100 USD/person with minimum one night stay. As indulgent as it sounds, this was way more than what I was willing to pay!

 

Also, I found out that the traditional kettuvallams were too big to go on the narrower, more shallow canals. This meant the scenery, although beautiful, didn't change much from day to day. I didn't feel I would be getting enough bang for my ($100) buck if I went on a house boat. Instead, I chose a smaller boat that would allow me to experience the backwaters more in depth. I headed to the end of the jetty where all the small boats were docked, and began my search.

 

As expected, I was approached by several guides offering to take me on the backwaters. I settled on the one with the most welcoming smile and spoke very good English. After some friendly haggling, we agreed on a price that suited both of us. If I remember correctly, I paid about 700 rupees ($12 CAD) for a 4-hour cruise along the canals.

 

Cruising Along the Backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala

 

The boat was much better than I expected! The roof was made of wooden lattices reflecting traditional Keralan boat-making techniques. Lots of cushioned chairs and lounge chairs were available for comfortable seating. Plus, my boyfriend and I had the whole boat to ourselves. Talk about a great deal!

 

The guide turned out to be very amiable, knowledgeable and chatty. As he carefully navigated the boat, he pointed out his favorite chai bar, his house and he even introduced us to some of his friends. I probably wouldn't have experienced this personal touch on a larger kettuvallam. Of course, I'm sure it helped that we were the only passengers on the boat.

 

Cruising Along the Backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala

 

The backwaters are a lifeline to all those living in the surrounding areas. They serve as the main waterway to get around from village to village and to transport merchandise. I was surprised to see so many shops along the shores. The scenery constantly changed, piquing my curiosity at every turn. I witnessed everyday life unfold in the backwaters of Kerala, and it was wonderful. That's exactly what I was hoping for when I went to Alleppey.

 

My guide took me on narrow canals winding through tiny villages. He was kind enough to dock the boat so I could roam around one of the villages for a short while. I walked along the dirt path leading to a handful of houses. The villagers seemed surprised to see a foreigner but I was greeted with smiles all around. I even met a cute goat along the way. I gazed out at the rice paddies and couldn't believe where I was. It was so peaceful, it felt like a world away. I thought to myself, "This is why Kerala is called God's Own Country".

 

Alas, my cruise had ended but I will forever hold fond memories of the mesmerizing backwaters of Kerala.

 

Cruising Along the Backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala

 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

There's no need to book a cruise in advance with a guest house or hotel. You can just walk up to the jetty and choose from the many boats that are docked there. This also gives you a chance to have a look at the houseboat before paying.

Ask around to give you an idea of the going rate (which depends on the season) but make sure to carefully negotiate not only the price but also the length of your stay and inclusions.

 

Cruising Along the Backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala

 

Have you been on a houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala? Share your experience in the comments below! 

 

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