Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didn’t Like It

with 64 Comments

The Vietnam War stretched out from 1955 to 1975. The war entailed millions of fatalities including some in the neighboring (non-participating) countries of Laos and Cambodia. It was a war waged between the United States and two opposing parties in Vietnam: the North and the South. The Northern party wanted to maintain a Communist regime throughout the whole of the country. The Southern party wanted to free the Vietnamese from the claws of the Communist stronghold.

 

Gradually the United States withdrew its troops and officially ended its involvement in the war in 1973. The fighting continued between the North and the South until the Northern army successfully overtook Saigon in 1975. The following year in 1976, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honour of the late Communist leader bearing the same name. Since the war ended and until this day, both halves of Vietnam, namely North and South, have been reunified under a Communist regime.

 

VISITING THE CU CHI TUNNELS & WHY I DIDN'T LIKE IT

Source: Dogma Collection

 

When I went to Ho Chi Minh City, I was looking forward to visiting the infamous Cu Chi tunnels. These tunnels played a pivotal role in the Vietnam War. The Cu Chi tunnels are an elaborate network of underground tunnels snaking 250 km. They were painstakingly dug (mostly) by hand by a group of rebellious guerillas known as the Viet Cong. The Communist Viet Cong sided with the Northern Communist fighters but were strategically stationed in the South near Saigon.

 

The tunnels were not only used as shelter from opponents but served as headquarters for the Viet Cong, as well. It's here they would scheme and lay out their plans. Wanting to flee the imminent dangers above ground, the tunnels inevitably became homes for the fighting rebels and their families. Living quarters with functioning kitchens, sleeping cots and electricity were set up. The dark, damp tunnels also acted as hospitals and playgrounds where children ran around oblivious to the terrors of the outside world.

 

Sickness often took over and malaria became the second cause of death after wounds caused by the war. Those living in the tunnels shared the closed, airless compounds with a variety of vermin, ants, poisonous centipedes and other undesirable insects. Although the tunnels procured a safe haven from the war blazing above-ground, they created unimaginable challenges within their walls.

 

Cu Chi Tunnels, Vietnam

 

At first, I was very excited to be visiting this historical site; scenes from the movie Platoon kept flashing before my eyes. But, soon after entering the jungle of the tunnels, my curiosity and eagerness started to fade. I willingly smiled for the camera but without a lens pointing at me my demeanor was taking on another façade - one of furrowed brows and perplexed frowns.

 

An uneasiness came over me.

 

Seeing firsthand the draconian contraptions and calculated methods used for torturing the enemy, being in the exact place where such horrors took place and realizing that everything around me was once a horrific reality for many would make anyone feel uneasy. Or so I thought.

 

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didnt Like It

 

Of course, I can't say how each person truly felt but judging by the overall giddiness, unabashed laughter and occasional jokes, most visitors seemed to be taking everything that was said and seen all too lightly. Now, I'm not saying we all should've been crying our eyes out but I did expect some empathy or some whispered concerns.

 

Maybe I was being just a little too sensitive so I didn't dwell too much on how others behaved. Instead, I decided to concentrate on my own mixed emotions about being there.

 

 

Following the neatly cleared paths brought us to something I really didn't expect to see. There in the middle of the jungle where one of the most controversial wars took place was.....a souvenir shop. The shop sold all sorts of paraphernalia a lot of which had nothing to do with the Vietnam War. I didn't think this was the right place to be selling souvenirs. It was really starting to feel like an amusement park.

 

But the worst was yet to come.

 

I heard gun shots.

 

I thought they were coming from a video being shown nearby but they sounded very real. Then I heard a voice ask me if I wanted to shoot a gun. What?! I couldn't believe there was an actual shooting range on the exact same premises a very bloody war took place! How inappropriate is that? It seemed many visitors thought otherwise.

 

The sound of several consecutive shots coming from AK-47's (or whatever assault weapon was chosen as there were a few models) echoed in the surrounding jungle and through my entire body. Once again, a certain uneasiness resurfaced.

 

Now it definitely felt like an amusement park.

 

Some of the underground tunnels were made higher and wider to accommodate visitors who wanted to experience crawling through a tunnel from one end to the other (about 30 meters long). I cautiously stepped forward and went down the narrow stairwell with a cloud of doubt hovering above my head. I could see in front of me an endless line of people hunched over and closely huddled with no space to even scratch your ass ear.

 

Slowly, I started to make my way in the line neatly formed like a troop of ants diligently following their leader. When it came time to enter the tunnel, I suddenly changed my mind. I could barely turn around but I made my way backwards mouthing a series of almost inaudible 'excuse me's' on my way up the stairs and into the open air.

 

I'm not usually claustrophobic but I started to feel really uncomfortable (is that what claustrophobia feels like?). Upon reflection, I honestly didn't think this seemingly 'educational' activity (accompanied by a swarm of laughter and nervous giggles) would even begin to remotely give me a idea of what it was like for those who had to rely on the tunnels for survival. In the end, I was glad I didn't participate in this activity.

 

Next our guide brought us to one of the many trap doors scattered in the jungle leading to the tunnels. These trap doors were only used by the Viet Cong (and others living in the tunnels) who knew exactly where each one was located. When closed shut and camouflaged under piles of foliage, the trap doors (measuring approximately 12" x 18") were undetectable by the enemy.

 

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didnt Like It

 

Again, I hesitated going in. I worriedly stepped down one foot at a time. With my stomach tightening, my dangling feet desperately searched for the platform to settle on (this platform was only installed for the purpose of taking pictures). Once in, my body felt constrained, my freedom felt like it was withering away; I couldn't bring myself to close the cover completely (or partially for that matter!). I smiled nervously to capture this awkward moment on camera.

 

In just a few seconds, random thoughts ran through my mind: How could anyone go down (let alone live) in these suffocating tunnels? Why is this presented as a fun tourist attraction? Why am I doing this? I didn't have the answers but as far as having to go down the tunnels, I imagined that only a desperate need for survival could give someone such courage.

 

Cooking could be deadly - the Viet Cong were clever enough to diverge the smoke to trap doors many kilometers away creating confusion among the enemy

 

 

Throughout the site are re-enactments of how the Viet Cong used to live and operate above-ground. Here you can see the mannequins wearing their khăn rằn (black & white checkered scarves) which identified them as Viet Cong soldiers.

 

Whenever possible, soldiers also busied themselves making the necessary tools needed for everyday living but also cleverly concocting deadly weapons using only rudimentary materials.

 

After about 2 hours, our tour came to an end. With each step I took, I found this place to be way too commercialized - a definite money-making machine. Visiting the Cu Chi tunnels and learning more about them was interesting but what I didn't like was the almost festive atmosphere. I really couldn't help but feel like I was at an amusement park.

 

Sure with all the genuine artifacts, the short documentary shown at the beginning of the tour and the original military gear there was no denying the Vietnam War actually took place in that dense jungle but, in my opinion, it could be presented in a much more respectful and dignified manner (removing the shooting range would be a good start).

 

The reasons why I didn't like visiting the Cu Chi tunnels might be subjective but no one can deny this site is ranking in the dollars (or dongs).

 

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didnt Like It

 

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64 Responses

  1. Elaine J Masters
    | Reply

    I’d probably feel the same as you did. When tourism is so blatant and there isn’t a sense of reverance, I feel queasy too. The tunnels sounded horrific.

  2. TalesOfABackpacker
    | Reply

    Hmm, it is always interesting visiting places of war, tragedy and other awful histories. It is important to remember, but it can be very difficult to do right – without the theme park aspect you mention! It reminded me of seeing those selfies on the holocaust memorial, an important place of reflection & respect, not peddling souvenirs or trying for that perfect picture!

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      I also saw those selfies at the holocaust memorial and thought how could anyone be so insensitive?! Just awful!

  3. Julie
    | Reply

    I was shocked when I read the part you were asked to shot a gun, which seems really really weird in a historical place not to mention there were war and tragedies. This post reminds all of the travelers and others to respect the place and people’s lives, instead of visiting it for entertainment. Hopefully they did not ask you to pay for the tips and trip!

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      It really is too bad that the Cu Chu Tunnels have been turned into a form of entertainment. We didn’t give any tips but I honestly don’t remember if the guide asked for any.

  4. Jenna
    | Reply

    Glad to hear your perspective on this. We’ve been researching a trip to Vietnam and the Cu Chi Tunnels sound like an interesting, important and historic site to visit, but I feel conflicted about visiting these types of spots sometimes too. When they are presented in a respectful way, they can give a good perspective on what happened, but when they feel too lighthearted and like an amusement it doesn’t make me feel comfortable either. Thanks for sharing your experience–I still might be interested in visiting just to see the tunnels and learn more about the site’s historical significance, but it’s nice to know what to expect going into it!

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      I think you should still go knowing it might feel like an amusement park. Others have commented that they had quite a different experience (much more rewarding) so it could go either way I guess.

  5. Kerri
    | Reply

    I absolutely loved my visit to the Cu Chi tunnels recently. But, I went with the specific need to understand more about the war and Australia’s involvement in it. I knew quite a bit but was interested in a different perspective. We made a decision to go to the Ben Duoc area not Ben Dinh to avoid the overcommercialisation of the war and its impacts. Everyone that I was with treated it with great respect. I was completely freaked out by the tunnels and have continued to think about and contemplate life in them ever since. The one thing I didn’t like (and this is largely because of my Australian background) was the pure propaganda rhetoric by the Viets in suggesting the war was fun and a game. I would have thought that time and history might have given this a more balanced view.

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      I’ve heard that the Ben Duoc area is much less commercialized. I’m Canadian so I didn’t feel any personal attachment to the Vietnam War but I also remember feeling really uncomfortable about the guide’s lenient attitude towards killing Americans. I’m glad to hear you enjoyed your visit to the tunnels!

  6. Travel Pockets
    | Reply

    After reading your experience, I think I would have mixed feelings as well. The souvenir shop and being able to shoot guns wouldn’t be something I would be interested. I’m like you and don’t expect everyone to be teary-eyed, but I also think it’s a place that should be remembered as a dark time in history.

  7. Erica Coffman
    | Reply

    This was a heart-breaking read. I’ve been seeing so many posts lately about the seemingly oblivious hoards of tourists taking selfies and doing yoga poses at war/genocide memorials. Although it seems as if the Vietnamese are actually encouraging similar behavior here, it’s so strange and confusing as to why anyone would think that was ok. I don’t blame you for saying you didn’t really like it. I wouldn’t either.

  8. Megan Indoe
    | Reply

    Thanks for your honest experience, we never made it to Cu Chi tunnels together but I am not sure I want to visit them after this read. I don’t mind at all that the locals made this historical place a money making machine, but it seems like some of the things they have going on there are in poor taste and insensitive to the people who died there. I feel like it would be a somber experience but you always see people smiling and laughing in photos like it’s a fun place. I don’t know if I could muster up the courage to go into the tunnel, I think my claustrophobia would take over.

  9. Air Flight Cheap Tickets
    | Reply

    Interesting and quite educative post on the Cu-Chi tunnels in Vietnam, I never knew few of them stories anyway. At times you need get yourself emotional prepared on visiting places like this. Beautiful photos!

  10. Neha Verma
    | Reply

    Going through your post was almost like going through the tunnel itself. And I can understand what you would have felt on the sound of those guns. It almost would have felt like going back and reliving the era of blood thirsty wars..

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