Monks, Wats, Shopping, Eating and Sweating in Luang Prabang

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I've already written about the day Luang Prabng cast a spell on me. Now it's time to write about monks, wats, shopping, eating and sweating. In other words, things to do in the former royal capital of Laos.

 

Although Luang Prabang becomes a ghost town after 11 p.m. (when everything closes), there's still lots to do during the day. I wasn't really up to checking must-see's off a list but I did manage to visit Luang Prabang my way.

 

ALMS-GIVING CEREMONY (TAK BAT)

 

Tak Bat literally translates from Lao as "giving food to Buddhist monks". Every morning at sunrise, barefoot monks draped in their crimson robes form a line and proceed in walking in meditative silence in the streets of the historical center of Luang Prabang.

 

Each monk carries his own alms bowl ready to receive small portions of sticky rice from almsgivers. This procession is a sacred ritual highly revered by Buddhists but foreigners can also participate in the alms-giving ceremony.

 

I had read several accounts about tourists being disrespectful/unpleasant during the ceremony; to avoid being one of these obnoxious tourists, make sure to follow a few guidelines. As a personal observation, I did notice a few monks looking disgruntled, irritated and grumpy (except for some of the younger novice monks who seemed amused at being photographed by strangers).

 

Monks dressed in red robes forming a line to participate in the Tak Bat alms-giving ceremony in Luang Prabang in Laos

 

 

WATS (TEMPLES)

 

Luang Prabang is famous for having many wats - about 33 of them scattered all around the historical town. I didn't really feel like visiting all of them (or that many) so I basically just walked around not knowing where they were exactly. When I did come across a wat, I wandered around the grounds and took my time snapping pictures of the gold and saffron embellished exterior and of the blackened stupas.

 

Red and yellow Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang, Laos

 

SHOPPING

 

Laos has a rich heritage of hand-woven textiles and other handmade items which can be purchased at one of the many shops in Luang Prabang. Garments made with locally-produced silk in every color of the rainbow and other handicrafts such as rice baskets can be found all over town.

 

Keep in mind that prices in Luang Prabang (actually I found this to be the case in general in Laos), can be quite expensive. Don't fret, deals can be had at the night market.

 

Black and white bamboo cups hanging in a shop in Luang Prabang, Laos

 

The night market is located on Sisavangvong Road. Many of the vendors come from hill-tribe communities to sell their handmade wares. Some of the stuff is traditional and genuine like clothing from the H'mong tribeswomen and some of it clearly comes from China.

 

Special mention: Ock Pop Top, an award-winning socially-conscious shop, is located about 2 km from the center of Luang Prabang where you'll find gorgeous textiles (with high price tags). You can also enjoy a meal in the convivial coffee shop set in a lush tropical garden facing the Mekong River.

 

If you rather purchase directly from artisans, head to the other side of the Nam Kham river. The workshops sell a variety of handmade items such as cards made with elephant dung to traditional mulberry paper products to gorgeous linen & silk scarves.

 

Small bamboo bridge crossing over the murky green Mekong River in Luang Prabang, Laos

 

EATING 

 

Luang Prabang offers a wide range of restaurants with diversified menus. You can indulge in French delicacies in one of the many restaurants along the riverside or on Sisavangvong Road or you can sink your teeth into a cheesy Italian pizza. As in the rest of Laos, you won't find any American fast food restaurants (this is a good thing) but there are plenty of other options including quaint coffee shops complete with French pastries, steaming coffees and soothing teas.

 

 

But if you want a true taste of Lao cuisine, the night food market is the place to be. Branching out where Sisavangvong Road meets Settathilat Road, dozens of stalls offer local dishes made up of fish, chicken or other meats grilled right in front of your eyes.

 

You can also choose from a variety of ready-made salads or heaps of chopped up vegetables to make your own. I usually opted for the $1 (10,000 kips) all-you-can-fit-in-your-plate vegetarian buffet owned by a lovely couple. Everything was made fresh daily - and everything was really good!

 

While traveling in Laos it's hard to ignore the remnants of the French colonization that began in the late 19th century but the most time-honored influence would have to be the baguette (French bread). At the busiest corner (where tourists hang out) in historical Luang Prabang, a line of food stalls advertising their menus on banners have taken up permanent residence.

 

For the small sum of 15,000 kips (about $1.80 USD) you can savor hot, freshly-delivered baguettes made with your choice of ingredients (the avocado/chicken was my favorite). The entrepreneurial women working behind each counter will surely call you to try one of their tasty smoothies or to sip a Lao coffee while sitting at one of the picnic tables.

 

 

SWEATING

 

After stuffing yourself with copious amounts of food, you might justifiably gain a few pounds. That's where saunas come in. There are certainly a few saunas around Luang Prabang but every day I walked by Vannachit Sauna & Massage on the way to my guesthouse (it was right next door). Each time I passed by the dimly-lit sign beckoned me to go in. I wasn't sure it was a legitimate sauna but I decided to check it out anyways.

 

I walked in the dark front yard and was greeted by a man who then silently lead me to the house where a whole family was cleaning up after dinner (some were still licking their fingers). A pudgy, apron-attired woman approached me and nodded in affirmation when I asked her if I could use the sauna. Still doubtful this was a legitimate establishment, I reluctantly followed her up the stairs to the side of the house.

 

The woman handed me a towel and wrap-around cloth and left. There were two other local girls which helped ease my suspicions. I changed into my bikini behind a flimsy curtain and then headed to the sauna (there were two - one for men, one for women). It was very small and made of wood, the inside was pitch black.

 

I carefully maneuvered my way in the darkness until I felt a wobbly bench to sit on. The heat was so intense I immediately started sweating. I realize this is the whole point of a sauna but I didn't expect as much from this place, haha.

 

After a few minutes, I headed to the shower to cool down, and then went back and forth to the sauna. The change of temperatures felt so good on my skin!

 

And, guess what? It only cost 15,000 kips including unlimited tea!

 

Colourful mural with black and white pattern in Luang Prabang, Laos

 

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11 Responses

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  5. […] Friends but one whole day (two nights) was enough for us. It's conveniently located en-route from Luang Prabang to Vientiane (or vice versa) so, like it or not, a short stop-over is almost unavoidable. And to […]

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  8. JuliaSan
    | Reply

    We missed Laos on our Southeast Asia trip last year, but would love to return and visit. If the streetfood is just half as good as in Vietnam or Cambodia… 🙂

    • [email protected]
      | Reply

      Laos is definitely worth a visit! Unfortunately, the street food is far from being as delicious (or diverse) as Vietnam or Cambodia but we don’t eat meat so that limited our options. We did eat really well at the vegetarian buffet in Luang Prabang though.

  9. Melanie Lifessweetwords
    | Reply

    Oh my goodness!! I would be all about taking a walk across that bamboo bridge!! I love all the awesome details you got in your pictures!

    I currently have a travel link up going on and this post would be a great addition if you wanted to join in on the fun 🙂 http://www.lifessweetwords.com/2017/04/traveltuesday-15-sail-away-fun.html

    Happy Saturday!

    • [email protected]
      | Reply

      Hi Melanie! Crossing the bamboo bridge was a lot of fun! 🙂

      Will have a look at your travel link – thanks for sharing!

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By: Lydia April 13, 2017

Lydia