Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didn’t Like It

with 64 Comments

The Vietnam War stretched out from 1955 to 1975. The war entailed millions of fatalities including some in the neighboring (non-participating) countries of Laos and Cambodia. It was a war waged between the United States and two opposing parties in Vietnam: the North and the South. The Northern party wanted to maintain a Communist regime throughout the whole of the country. The Southern party wanted to free the Vietnamese from the claws of the Communist stronghold.

 

Gradually the United States withdrew its troops and officially ended its involvement in the war in 1973. The fighting continued between the North and the South until the Northern army successfully overtook Saigon in 1975. The following year in 1976, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honour of the late Communist leader bearing the same name. Since the war ended and until this day, both halves of Vietnam, namely North and South, have been reunified under a Communist regime.

 

VISITING THE CU CHI TUNNELS & WHY I DIDN'T LIKE IT

Source: Dogma Collection

 

When I went to Ho Chi Minh City, I was looking forward to visiting the infamous Cu Chi tunnels. These tunnels played a pivotal role in the Vietnam War. The Cu Chi tunnels are an elaborate network of underground tunnels snaking 250 km. They were painstakingly dug (mostly) by hand by a group of rebellious guerillas known as the Viet Cong. The Communist Viet Cong sided with the Northern Communist fighters but were strategically stationed in the South near Saigon.

 

The tunnels were not only used as shelter from opponents but served as headquarters for the Viet Cong, as well. It's here they would scheme and lay out their plans. Wanting to flee the imminent dangers above ground, the tunnels inevitably became homes for the fighting rebels and their families. Living quarters with functioning kitchens, sleeping cots and electricity were set up. The dark, damp tunnels also acted as hospitals and playgrounds where children ran around oblivious to the terrors of the outside world.

 

Sickness often took over and malaria became the second cause of death after wounds caused by the war. Those living in the tunnels shared the closed, airless compounds with a variety of vermin, ants, poisonous centipedes and other undesirable insects. Although the tunnels procured a safe haven from the war blazing above-ground, they created unimaginable challenges within their walls.

 

Cu Chi Tunnels, Vietnam

 

At first, I was very excited to be visiting this historical site; scenes from the movie Platoon kept flashing before my eyes. But, soon after entering the jungle of the tunnels, my curiosity and eagerness started to fade. I willingly smiled for the camera but without a lens pointing at me my demeanor was taking on another façade - one of furrowed brows and perplexed frowns.

 

An uneasiness came over me.

 

Seeing firsthand the draconian contraptions and calculated methods used for torturing the enemy, being in the exact place where such horrors took place and realizing that everything around me was once a horrific reality for many would make anyone feel uneasy. Or so I thought.

 

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didnt Like It

 

Of course, I can't say how each person truly felt but judging by the overall giddiness, unabashed laughter and occasional jokes, most visitors seemed to be taking everything that was said and seen all too lightly. Now, I'm not saying we all should've been crying our eyes out but I did expect some empathy or some whispered concerns.

 

Maybe I was being just a little too sensitive so I didn't dwell too much on how others behaved. Instead, I decided to concentrate on my own mixed emotions about being there.

 

 

Following the neatly cleared paths brought us to something I really didn't expect to see. There in the middle of the jungle where one of the most controversial wars took place was.....a souvenir shop. The shop sold all sorts of paraphernalia a lot of which had nothing to do with the Vietnam War. I didn't think this was the right place to be selling souvenirs. It was really starting to feel like an amusement park.

 

But the worst was yet to come.

 

I heard gun shots.

 

I thought they were coming from a video being shown nearby but they sounded very real. Then I heard a voice ask me if I wanted to shoot a gun. What?! I couldn't believe there was an actual shooting range on the exact same premises a very bloody war took place! How inappropriate is that? It seemed many visitors thought otherwise.

 

The sound of several consecutive shots coming from AK-47's (or whatever assault weapon was chosen as there were a few models) echoed in the surrounding jungle and through my entire body. Once again, a certain uneasiness resurfaced.

 

Now it definitely felt like an amusement park.

 

Some of the underground tunnels were made higher and wider to accommodate visitors who wanted to experience crawling through a tunnel from one end to the other (about 30 meters long). I cautiously stepped forward and went down the narrow stairwell with a cloud of doubt hovering above my head. I could see in front of me an endless line of people hunched over and closely huddled with no space to even scratch your ass ear.

 

Slowly, I started to make my way in the line neatly formed like a troop of ants diligently following their leader. When it came time to enter the tunnel, I suddenly changed my mind. I could barely turn around but I made my way backwards mouthing a series of almost inaudible 'excuse me's' on my way up the stairs and into the open air.

 

I'm not usually claustrophobic but I started to feel really uncomfortable (is that what claustrophobia feels like?). Upon reflection, I honestly didn't think this seemingly 'educational' activity (accompanied by a swarm of laughter and nervous giggles) would even begin to remotely give me a idea of what it was like for those who had to rely on the tunnels for survival. In the end, I was glad I didn't participate in this activity.

 

Next our guide brought us to one of the many trap doors scattered in the jungle leading to the tunnels. These trap doors were only used by the Viet Cong (and others living in the tunnels) who knew exactly where each one was located. When closed shut and camouflaged under piles of foliage, the trap doors (measuring approximately 12" x 18") were undetectable by the enemy.

 

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didnt Like It

 

Again, I hesitated going in. I worriedly stepped down one foot at a time. With my stomach tightening, my dangling feet desperately searched for the platform to settle on (this platform was only installed for the purpose of taking pictures). Once in, my body felt constrained, my freedom felt like it was withering away; I couldn't bring myself to close the cover completely (or partially for that matter!). I smiled nervously to capture this awkward moment on camera.

 

In just a few seconds, random thoughts ran through my mind: How could anyone go down (let alone live) in these suffocating tunnels? Why is this presented as a fun tourist attraction? Why am I doing this? I didn't have the answers but as far as having to go down the tunnels, I imagined that only a desperate need for survival could give someone such courage.

 

Cooking could be deadly - the Viet Cong were clever enough to diverge the smoke to trap doors many kilometers away creating confusion among the enemy

 

 

Throughout the site are re-enactments of how the Viet Cong used to live and operate above-ground. Here you can see the mannequins wearing their khăn rằn (black & white checkered scarves) which identified them as Viet Cong soldiers.

 

Whenever possible, soldiers also busied themselves making the necessary tools needed for everyday living but also cleverly concocting deadly weapons using only rudimentary materials.

 

After about 2 hours, our tour came to an end. With each step I took, I found this place to be way too commercialized - a definite money-making machine. Visiting the Cu Chi tunnels and learning more about them was interesting but what I didn't like was the almost festive atmosphere. I really couldn't help but feel like I was at an amusement park.

 

Sure with all the genuine artifacts, the short documentary shown at the beginning of the tour and the original military gear there was no denying the Vietnam War actually took place in that dense jungle but, in my opinion, it could be presented in a much more respectful and dignified manner (removing the shooting range would be a good start).

 

The reasons why I didn't like visiting the Cu Chi tunnels might be subjective but no one can deny this site is ranking in the dollars (or dongs).

 

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels and Why I Didnt Like It

 

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64 Responses

  1. Henry
    | Reply

    You’ve captured perfectly the way I felt about the whole Cu Chi tunnels, and pretty much all of the war exhibitions. I was there in March of 2003, ironically on the same day that the US invaded Iraq for the 2nd time. It was impossible to ignore the parallels then. Thanks for sharing!

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      I think everyone has a different reaction but some readers such as yourself have expressed how uncomfortable they felt visiting such exhibitions. I think these types of “tourist attractions” completely lose their sense when they become way too commercialized. It must have been quite the experience visiting the Cu Chi tunnels while the US invaded another country. :

  2. Auste Treciakauskaite
    | Reply

    I’m glad we didn’t go. Although I didn’t think it would be made into an amusement park! That’s so innapropriate 🙁 We visited the Landmine Museum when we were in Cambodia and that was enough of war material to me – reading about the horrors and how millions of farmers still lose their limbs and even lives TO THIS DAY because of all the mines still buried in the ground… 🙁 how can people think it’s ok to make a fun attraction of something this horrible?

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      I guess the lack of empathy I found at the Cu Chi Tunnels was due to the fact that the Viet Congs won the war so they tend to ridicule the Americans. I don’t take sides but war under any circumstance is no laughing matter. I didn’t visit any of the war memorials in Cambodia for fear of finding the same laid back attitude (but maybe it would’ve been different). Thanks for commenting!

  3. Anthony Jury
    | Reply

    Ah Cu Chi tunnels, some good bits but definitely commercialised like much most of Vietnam that I saw. Then I entered the tunnels myself with my two boys, they loved it, young and springy. As for myself I wish I had avoided it..

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      My boyfriend was also brave enough to enter the tunnels and he also regretted it. I can see how your kids loved it though!

  4. Leah Caraher
    | Reply

    I think I would feel like you did. It seems like such an strange way to make this sad moment in history a fun day out. I would have freaked out going in the little spaces.

    • Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
      | Reply

      It is strange how these “memorials” are turned into utter tourist attractions. There are surely better ways to shed light on a country’s history. Those tunnels are quite suffocating!

  5. Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
    | Reply

    Another reader wrote about the gift shop at the 9/11 museum and I was shocked! Why does everything have to be about making money?! It makes me question the true intention of these places.

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