You might wonder why anyone would want to visit a temple riddled with rats. The answer is quite simple: because Shri Karni Mata Temple is the only one of its kind in the whole world. That was reason enough for me to want to go! I was also interested in learning more on why this temple was dedicated to rats, one of the most hated rodents.

So, was how was my visit? Continue reading as I share my impression on visiting Shri Karni Mata, affectionately known as the Rat Temple of Deshnoke.

HOW TO VISIT SHRI KARNI MATA TEMPLE IN DESHNOKE

HOW TO GET TO THE RAT TEMPLE OF DESHNOKE

Deshnoke is about 30 km from the town of Bikaner where most travelers choose to stay. The best (read: most interesting) and cheapest way to get to Deshnoke is by taking a local bus for just a few rupees. The driver knows most travellers take this bus to go to the temple so he will let you know when you arrive.

The bus will stop in front of the sign indicating the direction of the temple. Shri Karni Mata is a few hundred meters from the road where the bus stops. You can either walk about 5-10 minutes or take a tuk-tuk to get to the temple (which, in my opinion, isn't worth the hassle).

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

There's no entrance fee to visit the Rat Temple. Visitors are asked to remove their shoes but can keep their socks on. I preferred going in barefoot; I figured it was better to clean my feet afterwards than to keep filthy socks on in my shoes. I suggest you bring hand sanitizer and wipes for both your hands and feet.

WHAT IS SHRI KARNI MATA TEMPLE?

Devotees of Karni Mata firmly believe that each person of their faith is reincarnated as a rat rendering them as holy. There are different versions as to why this is but the end result is the same: rats are to be highly revered deserving of their very own temple.

Pilgrims from all over India make their way to the Shri Karni Mata Temple to pay their respects to the holy rats known as kabbas. The temple is also home to a few white rats said to be much holier than any of the other rats.

I noticed parents reaching out their children’s hands to touch the white rats as a blessing as well as bring good fortune.

The rats were more big-mouse-size than sewer-rat-size but, a rat is a rat no matter what size it is! The holy rats were scurrying about everywhere. I mean, everywhere! They were coming out of every crevice and hole. It was really hard to avoid having them run over my feet or nibble at my toes.

Luckily, I did mange to avoid any contact with the critters. I tip-toed the whole time I was there and kept my eyes on the ground. I had to control myself from squirming and screeching out of respect for the devotees and their holy rats.

As holy as the rats are, the temple itself is filthy (hence, the wipes and sanitizer). Not only was the temple filled with rats but the floor was covered in rat (and pigeon) droppings and pee. It was quite the challenge dodging scurrying rats and puddles of pee at the same time. Hence, not stepping on rat droppings was almost impossible.

The smell from the rat waste was pungent enough to make my stomach churn. I suggest you bring something to cover your nose.

Read also: Sacred Cows and Holy Crap of India

There’s a shrine in the back of the temple where male devotees feed the rats. Large bowls are filled with milk and rice while hundreds of rats scurry to eat. Non-Hindu women are not permitted to enter the enclosed area but I was able to get close enough to take pictures of this unusual ritual.

As you can see, no one was in the least bit bothered by the rats. Well, except for me, haha. The sight of men casually sitting cross-legged with rats running around them was surreal. I never thought I would see something like that in my life!

Then again, I was in India, the land of the unexpected.

I admit none of this sounds appealing enough to visit the Rat Temple of Deshnoke but I’m still happy I went. I got to experience unique religious practices honoring one of the most hated rodents. It's not every day someone can say they hung out with holy rats.

After all, Shri Karni Mata is the only one of its kind in the whole world.