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Before I wax poetic about my time in Belgrade, let me first say that it isn't the best-looking city. In fact, it can appear to be quite gritty. However, what it lacks in looks, it makes up for in unabashed boldness. I noticed this boldness in the way people proudly walked. This sense of pride shown in the way they dressed: stylish, prim, swanky. I certainly didn't expect Serbs to be so fashion-oriented.

Belgrade has a big city feel all wrapped up in a small package. It's big enough to offer an array of activities sure to please most visitors. It's small enough to wander around without getting lost. What's more, an upbeat vibe transpired in the air. I was excited to start exploring what bold and gritty Belgrade had to offer!

BOHEMIAN SKADARLIJA 

Once I found out about a bohemian street in this post-Soviet era city, a true epitome of contrasts, my curiosity couldn’t be contained. Skadarlija is the name of the neighborhood located in the old part (Stari Grad) of town from which the quintessentially bohemian street gets its name from.

The pedestrian cobble-stone street is lined with cozy restaurants offering outdoor seating (during the warmer months) in an idyllic setting surrounded by blooming flowers and weathered artists. The back walls of the buildings facing Skadarlija have been beautified with wonderful illusionary art that are stunning in their simplicity.

Skadarlija has managed to preserve its bohemian legacy left by the Gypsies/Romani. Back in 1830, the free-spirited Gypsies/Romani were the original founders of the Bohemianesque quarter of Skadarlija. Unbeknownst to them, it would become an integral part of Belgrade, and the second most visited attraction in the city.

SHOPPING ON KNEZ MIHAILOVA STREET

Knez Mihailova is the main shopping street in the city center. Also a pedestrian street but much less charming, Knez Mihailova is where all the international brands and shops can be found including an ultra-modern shopping mall, Rajiceva, at one end of the street.

I was there in late-September when the weather was still pleasantly warm and the street was filled with stylish people (walking their handsome dogs), snack stands (get some popcorn!), street performers, hopeful artists and teenagers dressed to impress.

I ended up here every night not to shop but to simply take in the lively atmosphere. This pedestrian street was always packed with people! It was obvious strutting along Knez Mihailova street at night was a favourite pastime for Belgraders.

ADA CIGANLIJA URBAN OASIS

As a self-proclaimed “City Girl”, I totally enjoy exploring a city for hours on end. That being said, my idea of a perfect city also has loads of green space to offer much-needed solace from the urban grind. And why not add a beach to that perfect mix? Enter Ada Ciganlija, a vast public park/beach set along the shores of the man-made Sava Lake.

Ada Ciganlija is where urbanites get their fix of clean oxygen and Vitamin C. In seeing a few last lingering bikini-clad sunbathers in late-September, it's no surprise the pebble beach is said to be swarming during the hot and steamy Summer months.

STROLL ALONG THE SAVA RIVER

Thankfully, the city was smart enough to include a paved walking/cycling path along the river stretching for kilometers on end. After spending a few hours enjoying some farniente at Ada Ciganlija, I decided to walk back to the city along the Sava River.

Along the way, I took in a local scene: men, fishing rod in hand, patiently waiting to snag a fresh catch. I also spotted  several floating river bars (called “splavs”) getting ready to receive the nocturnal party crowds. In the distance, Belgrade lit up while the sun set.

It was the perfect end to a perfect day!

STREET ART IN SAVAMALA

Given Belgrade's reputation for being bland and grey (no thanks to its Communist past), some of its residents took it upon themselves to spruce up one of its less-desirable neighborhoods by asking street artists to embellish the decrepit buildings.

The result is a hodgepodge of amateur graffiti, artistic murals and spray-painted tags rendering Savamala the most creative quarter of Belgrade. It's also here where a few funky, alternative bars have taken up residency attracting hipsters, underdogs, dancing queens and bar flies.

BELGRADE FORTRESS & KALEMEGDAN PARK

Belgrade Fortress sits atop a hill (citadel) at the confluence of the legendary Danube River and the Sava River. The few remaining original relics of the fortress are several centuries old but the wall itself has been built and rebuilt numerous times throughout the years. Nonetheless, it remains Belgrade’s oldest historical site and its number one tourist attraction.

As soon as the sun sets, both Kalemegdan Park and the fortress (entrance is free) are a magnet for families and couples (and singles!) alike wanting to take an evening stroll or simply sit on the stone walls. This is the best place to take in the views of Lower Belgrade and leafy New Belgrade across the river.

It’s also the perfect place to watch the sunset. The park is right next to the city center, more specifically at the end of Knez Mihailova street, making it an easy add-on to a day of sightseeing (or shopping).

BAJLONI FARMERS’ MARKET

As an avid seeker of local markets, I was really happy to stumble across Bajloni Farmers’ Market. The market offers a vast selection of fresh fruits and vegetables all grown locally in the Serbian countryside. The terracotta-roof houses were a lovely backdrop for the rows and rows of stalls brimming with produce, baskets of brightly-hued flowers and a whole lot of hot chili peppers!

ORTHODOX CHURCHES OF BELGRADE

A few churches are scattered in and around the city but the most historically-significant church in Belgrade is the Church of Saint-Sava named after the saint who founded the Serbian Orthodox Church. The monolithic church, built at the exact location where Saint Sava's remains were burnt in 1595, is said to be one of the largest in the world.

Although the exterior looked rather modest, the recently-renovated interior was absolutely jaw-dropping! Every wall and all the domed ceilings are  covered in intricately detailed, gold-lacquered frescoes. It was my first time visiting an Orthodox Church and, I must say, I was impressed!

The other important church in Belgrade is Saint-Mark's Orthodox Church. I didn’t go inside but I was struck by how different the architecture was. Saint-Mark’s Orthodox Church was built in 1940 in a beautiful Serbo-Byzantine style which I had never seen before. Both churches are within walking distance to the city center making it easy to check off the list of things to see in Belgrade.

READ MORE ON BELGRADE

• What Makes Belgrade Truly Interesting
• A Crazy Medley of Street Art in Belgrade

TRAVEL RESOURCES

• Book flights to Serbia via Skyscanner
• Compare hotel prices in Serbia on Booking.com & Agoda
• Check hostel prices on HostelWorld
• Stay connected using an Airalo E-sim for Serbia
• Search for tours & excursions in Serbia
• Shop for affordable travel insurance with SafetWing
• Save on conversion fees while traveling with Wise

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Lydia

I’m the founder and creator of Life Untraveled. I quit my corporate job, sold everything I owned and have been traveling full-time since 2018. I hope to inspire you to travel differently on a budget.

More about me here.