Like in a Misty Dream on Inle Lake

I made my way by foot to the main hub where all the boats were docked. The daunting task of negotiating began. It was the Thingyan Festival so I already knew prices would be at least double. I managed to strike a deal with a friendly but stern woman. The price was 30,000 kyats for two people which was reasonable given the circumstances. I was eager to feel like in a misty dream on Inle Lake.

All the wooden boats had plastic chairs set in a row. My boat was covered in swathes of chipped paint and seemed to have seen better days. The sun was blazing hot. Luckily, the young man steering the boat lent me an umbrella to shield from the ruthless sun. I sat in my wobbly plastic chair and waited for the motor to rev up.

We drifted away from town leaving behind the dusty town of Nyaung Shwe. Our little boat picked up speed until we reached the vastness of Inle Lake. The surrounding mountains were barely visible, hidden ever so slightly behind a hazy veil. I was transfixed by the sheer natural beauty that lay before me. Inle Lake was much more beautiful than I expected.

I signaled to the young man steering the boat to dock by a small group of stilted house. He kindly obliged. This area was usually immersed in water but a small path revealed itself during the dry season. I was curious to follow this path.

My attention turned to an elderly woman in a traditional longyi (wrap-around cloth skirt). Sitting on her porch, she looked in amusement at the four strangers. The lines on her face told tales of many years past. She and I couldn't didn't speak the same language but we greeted each other with a smile; hers filled with wisdom, mine with curiosity.

My visit to Inle Lake was off to a great start. The young man revved up the engine and off we were sputtering away, once again, on the murky waters of the lake. After only a few minutes, we slowed down as we approached an expansive field of green. This lush vegetation was served a very useful purpose.

The fields were floating gardens. Fruits and vegetables grew in abundance on the surface of the water. Local farmers created floating beds by using weeds from the bottom of the lak. The weeds are then held together with bamboo sticks. The floating gardens are extremely fertile. Apparently, all the tomatoes consumed in Myanmar are cultivated on Inle Lake.

Next up, we headed towards the center of the floating village. Lots of boats were buzzing around like a swarm of busy bees. The stilted houses seemed to balance precariously. As we sped around the center of the water village, I enjoyed simply watching everyday life unfold, one raucous boat at a time.

A lot of pagodas, temples and stupas are scattered all over Myanma, and Inle Lake was no exception. The most popular one is Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda where hundreds of Buddhists gather to see five ancient Buddhas covered in gold leaves. All five sacred Buddhas have been covered in so many layers of gold leaves over the years that they now only look like humps.

Pictures are allowed but only men, including foreigners, are allowed to approach the Buddha images to place gold leaves.

Interesting fact: Next to the pagoda is a large barge in the form of an exquisite bird covered in gold leaves. Once a year, a big festival occurs when four Buddha images are levered on the barge. The barge makes its way around the villages on Inle Lake for a duration of 18 days. The festival takes place in October.

As much as I was enjoying my visit, I was looking forward to meeting the Kayan women. Kayan women are known for their unusual attire. It's customary to wear bronze coils around their necks and ankles. The coils make their necks look unusually long.

Kayan women are hired in handicraft shops to make woven textiles. The main purpose of their presence is mostly to attract curious tourists such as myself. Some argue this is ethically wrong. Here's what I posted on my Facebook page in regards to my visit with the Kayan women:

So this is one of those travel times I felt awkward and uncomfortable. Let me explain.These women are from the Kayan...

Posted by Life Untraveled on Thursday, November 10, 2016

Several stupas across the river caught my eye. Next up, I visited Aung Mingalar. I peeked into the hollowed out shrines, catching sight of several beautiful Buddha images. All the Buddha images were draped in gold leaves. Each one had a different facial expression. I loved how there were zero tourists here. I indulged in the peacefulness.

Alas, the sun was setting. This was a cue to end our day. Under a sky drenched in lavender, pink and plum, I let myself sink into the fleeing moment. I breathed in deeply as if filling my lungs with memories, vividly aware that my misty dream on Inle Lake was over.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

The town of Nyaung Shwe is the gateway to Inle Lake. This is where most visitors stay and will hire a boat to get to Inle Lake. Before reaching Nyaung Shwe, government-run booths are located at each road leading to town and all vehicles are stopped asking all foreign visitors to pay an entrance zone fee of 12,500 kyats (a ticket is given as proof of payment). If you refuse to pay, then you simply won't be allowed to visit Inle Lake.