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Is Brunei Darussalam worth visiting? Judging by what I've read online, most people would answer with a resounding 'No'. Although I believe every country has something to offer, I agree that you shouldn't go out of your way to visit this tiny country. But, what if it's on the way? Is the Sultanate worth visiting? And, what is there to do?

Brunei Darussalam is on the island of Borneo, sandwiched between the states of Sabah and Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo. I had just finished traveling from Kuching to Miri, a small city bordering Brunei, hence on the way. I figured I was too close not to go! The border crossing was easy and hassle-free by hopping on a bus! [UPDATE: this bus has been discontinued. The only option now is to take a taxi from Miri to Bandar Seri Begawan or to take a flight].

The Sultanate is considered to be one of the richest countries in the world thanks to its abundance of oil fields. This tiny country is governed by one of the last monarchies still in existence. Currently, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah is the reigning king.

IS BRUNEI DARUSSALAM WORTH VISITING?

With a population slightly over 430,000, it wasn't rare to be the only one wandering the streets of Bandar Seri Begawan. Plus, there's hardly any traffic, a rarity in South East Asia. While some might interpret this lack of frenzy as boring, I welcomed it gladly.

The capital city of Brunei Darussalam is definitely the least hectic I've been to in South East Asia. In fact, Darussalam means "Abode of Peace". What's more, Brunei is super safe even for solo female travellers.

Although Brunei doesn't boast an exhaustive list of things to do, I did manage to find more than I anticipated. This list might seem like a lot but all of these (save for one mosque) are within walking distance of each other. Don't fret, two days is more than enough to tick every item off the list.

SULTAN OMAR ALI SAIFUDDIEN MOSQUE 

The first place worth visiting in Brunei Darussalam is the iconic Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei. This historical place of worship is the most popular tourist attraction in Brunei. Designed by an Italian architect, this exquisite mosque unites Mughal architecture with traditional Malay styles, as well as inspiration from the Renaissance period.

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien had many of the materials shipped from abroad; no expense was spared in the construction of the mosque. The marble came from Italy, the fancy chandeliers from England and the beautiful carpets from Saudi Arabia. The pièce de résistance is the glittering main dome covered in pure gold leaf.

The interior of the mosque and the exterior pavilions are open to the public as per the following hours:

Interior: 8:30 a.m. - 12 p.m., 1:30 p.m. - 3 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. - 5:30 p.m. from Saturday to Wednesday (closed on Thursday & Friday)

Exterior: Open daily from 8 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

CEREMONIAL ROYAL BARGE

The ceremonial royal barge is kind of part of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque but, if you enter the mosque from the main entrance, you might miss it. Connected to the back courtyard of the mosque via a foot bridge, the regal ceremonial barge is a replica of a 16th century royal barge. The barge was built to commemorate the 1400th anniversary of Nuzul Al-Quran, the first revelation of the Quran to Prophet Muhammad.

JAME’ ASR HASSANIL BOLKIAH MOSQUE

Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is the largest mosque in the country with a capacity reaching 5000 attendants. The mosque is surrounded by finely manicured gardens featuring lovely fountains flanking each entrance. Its 29 golden domes are what make this mosque stand out from the rest. The stunning blue and white design as well as the intricate mosaic work were inspired by Turkish architecture.

If you think the exterior is incredible, wait until you step inside. A dramatic marble staircase and towering columns will immediately grab your attention. While admiring the distinctive design, make sure to look up at the magnificent stained glass dome on the ceiling.

The mosque is in Kampong Kiarong about 4 km from the city center but you can take bus no.1 to get there. As usual when visiting mosques, a few rules apply:

• Photography, videography and phones aren't allowed in the mosque
• Visitors (men and women) are given a black cloak to wear
• Women don't need to wear a headscarf
• Shoes must be left at the door (don't worry, the mosque is immaculate)
• Visitors don't have access to the prayer halls but you can ask permission to sneak a peak (no photos)

Opening hours: 8 a.m. - 12 p.m. & 2 p.m. - 3 p.m. Monday to Wednesday & Saturday, 10:30 a.m. - 12 p.m. & 2 p.m. - 3 p.m. Sunday (closed on Thursday & Friday)

TAMAN MAHKOTA JUBLI EMAS

My favourite place in Bandar Seri Begawan was Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas, a relaxing riverfront park right across the lagoon from Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. The idea behind this urban park was to revitalize the mostly bland, unappealing capital city.

The park is a wonderful, expansive green space for families to gather, starstruck lovers to stroll and joggers to get fit. As someone who loves urban parks, I really enjoyed walking around here. I especially liked the baobab trees.

WELCOME TO BRUNEI SIGN & FOUNTAIN

While enjoying Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas, head towards the "Selamat Datang - Welcome to Brunei" sign/fountain featuring the colours of the national flag. This square is a popular hangout for families and teenagers alike. Once the sun sets, trishaws or kids' trolleys are available for rent from one of the vendors.

STREET FOOD IN BRUNEI

Unlike other countries in South East Asia, Brunei isn't known as a foodie destination. You can, nonetheless, indulge in local foods at the handful of street food markets. The biggest street food market is in the suburb of Gadong a few kilometers from Bandar Seri Begawan. Pasar Gadong is open daily as of 4 p.m. until late and offers popular regional foods such as grilled meat skewers.

If you're in town on a Thursday and don't want to venture out to Gadong, you can mingle with the locals at the small street food market near the city center. While at this market, I learned that steaming hot coconut water is a thing in Brunei. Who knew?

Besides the usual Malay specialties, you can also eat some pretty good Indian food at one of the many restaurants in town. Malay food is very meat-heavy and, as a vegetarian, I was relieved to come across an Indian restaurant that served vegetarian meals.

KAMPONG AYER (FLOATING WATER VILLAGES)

Kampong Ayer is an agglomeration of floating villages. It's easy to get to Kampong Ayer by taking a boat from the waterfront in Bandar Seri Begawan. You shouldn't pay more than B$1 (Bruneian dollar) for the short ride. Thousands of native Bruneians choose to live in the villages as it's considered to be a privilege. In fact, the royal family comes from one of the villages, and the Sultan regularly pays a visit.

From the looks of the dilapidated houses, you might think the villagers are impoverished. On the contrary, many of those living in the floating villages are said to be moderately rich. I was told the Sultan offers free, newly-built housing on land but many residents prefer to continue living in their family heirloom homes of Kampong Ayer.

Footbridges make it easy to wander around the many villages. I found the villagers to be very welcoming and happy to see foreigners visiting their beloved Kampong Ayer. While here, you can visit Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery, a small museum depicting the history of the kampongs. Besides the museum, you should head to Kampong Bakut Berumput to have a look at the biggest house of all the floating villages. Apparently, several families live in this delightfully colourful home.

SULTAN OMAR ALI SAIFUDDIEN PEDESTRIAN BRIDGE

The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Pedistrian Bridge was built to connect the city center to the other side of the Brunei River. Don't miss the metal Crescent, an iconographic symbol of Islam, which lights up in different colors come night fall.

The bridge is a perfect place for an evening stroll while taking in the panoramic views of Brunei's landmarks. It can easily be reached by foot from the aforementioned urban park, Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas.

DEWAN BAHASA PUSTAKA MURAL

This larger-than-life mural takes up part of the facade of the public library located in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan. The intricate mural depicts cultural and social scenes typical of Brunei. Activities such as weaving, fishing and rice planting are beautifully illustrated using millions of color-infused, mosaic tiles. The Dewan Bahasa Pustaka Mural perfectly conveys the essence of Brunei while featuring its many different ethnic groups.

CENDERA LAMBANG KENANGAN MONUMENT (NATIONAL SQUARE)

Prior to gaining independence in 1984, Brunei was a British protectorate. The much-awaited Independence was declared in Taman Haji Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddien, a vast complex where national celebrations regularly take place. Under British rule, the capital city was formerly known as Brunei Town.

The name was changed to Bandar Seri Begawan in 1970. To commemorate this historical event, Cendera Lambang Kenangan Monument was built. The National Square is only open for national celebrations but the commemorative arch is only a stone's throw from the street making it easy to photograph.

TENG YUN CHINESE TEMPLE

Brunei prides itself on being an Islamic state but you might be surprised to know that mosques aren't the only places of worship. The Chinese migrated to Brunei during the British Colonial period and have made Brunei their home ever since. Naturally, Chinese Buddhists needed their own place of worship.

The first temple was built in 1918 but was destroyed in order to expand the port. As a result, Teng Yun Temple was built in 1960 and is now the oldest Chinese temple in Brunei. The small, red and white temple with its bright green roof sits in stark contrast against the backdrop of a drab multi-level parking lot.

TAMU KIANGGEH MARKET

Across the canal from Teng Yun Chinese Temple is Tamu Kianggeh Market. Compared to other wet markets in South East Asia, Tamu Kianggeh Market certainly isn't as bustling but it's still worth a short visit. Here, you can buy a variety of regional fruits and vegetables as well as locally handmade souvenirs such as woven baskets.

LOOK OUT FOR MONKEYS IN THE CITY

Most travelers in Brunei go on a river cruise through the mangroves to get a chance to see some elusive Proboscis monkeys. As for me, a river cruise wasn't on my agenda. As much as I love monkeys, I had already seen some Proboscis monkeys in Bako National Park near Kuching.

I wasn't expecting to see any type of 'wildlife' so I was really surprised when I spotted some monkeys right in the city. A whole troop of macaques was playing around near the canal. Macaques aren't rare in South East Asia but I'm always excited to see any kind of monkey!

ISTANA DARUSSALAM

This humble, Malay-style green house might not look like much but it's actually the birthplace of the current Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. The royal family previously lived in this 'Palace' before moving to the much more lavish Istana Nurul Iman.

The old palace is protected by barb wire while newly-built apartment buildings hover around. Entrance is forbidden but no one will stop you from taking a picture albeit through the barb wire. You can reach this historical home by heading to Jalan Sumbiling.

READ MORE ON BRUNEI DARUSSALAM

• Unveiling the Many Contradictions of Brunei Darussalam

TRAVEL RESOURCES

• Book flights to Brunei Darussalam via Skyscanner
• Compare hotel prices in Brunei Darussalam on Booking.com & Agoda
• Check hostel prices on HostelWorld
• Stay connected using an Airalo E-sim for Brunei Darussalam
• Search for tours & excursions in Brunei Darussalam
• Shop for affordable travel insurance with SafetWing
• Save on conversion fees while traveling with Wise

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Lydia

I’m the founder and creator of Life Untraveled. I quit my corporate job, sold everything I owned and have been traveling full-time since 2018. I hope to inspire you to travel differently on a budget.

More about me here.