After leaving Budapest feeling somewhat deflated, I had high hopes for the second city on our tour of the Balkans. The bus turned into the station as dusk fell over the city. I already knew my lack of research on Belgrade would either be a curse or a blessing. It was too late now, I had arrived, fresh off the bus.

It's safe to say I'm no stranger to bus stations; I've been on more local buses than I care to count during my travels. I braced myself for the awkward dance that would soon take place. I knew the drill: A step to the left to avoid that greasy-haired hustler complete with limp cigarette dangling off his lips. A step to the right in the hopes that eagle-eyed haggler doesn't spot us. A shuffle around the parked cars trying to sneak by those snarky taxi drivers.

But once the fleet of passengers had dispersed, each going their own way, I was left standing alone with only my backpack and a swirl of dust at my feet. There were no hustlers, no hagglers, not even a single taxi driver. The dance was off.

I didn't know it then, but this was the first of many surprises bold and gritty Belgrade had in store for me.

THINGS TO DO IN BOLD AND GRITTY BELGRADE

Before I wax poetic about my time in Belgrade, let me first say that it isn't the best-looking city. In fact, it can appear to be quite gritty. But what it lacks in looks, it makes up for in unabashed boldness. I noticed this boldness in the way people walked - a confident stride laced with a dash of (patriotic?) pride. This sense of pride shown in the way they dressed: stylish, prim, swanky. I certainly didn't expect Serbs to be so fashion-oriented.

Belgrade has a big city feel all wrapped up in a small package. It's big enough to offer an array of activities sure to please most visitors. It's small enough to enjoy traipsing around without getting frustratingly lost. Which was perfect for me as I prefer to walk whenever possible. What's more, an intoxicating, upbeat vibe transpired in the air. I was excited to start exploring what bold and gritty Belgrade had to offer.

Read also: What Makes Belgrade Truly Interesting?

A TOUCH OF BOHEMIA

Once I found out about a bohemian street in this post-Soviet era city, a true epitome of contrasts, my curiosity couldn’t be contained. Skadarlija is the name of the neighborhood located in the old part (Stari Grad) of town from which the quintessentially bohemian street gets its name from.

The pedestrian cobble-stone street is lined with cozy restaurants offering outdoor seating (during the warmer months) in an idyllic setting surrounded by blooming flowers and weathered artists. The back walls of the buildings facing Skadarlija have been beautified with wonderful illusionary art, stunning in their simplicity.

Despite being only a short walk from the more modern, upscale city center, Skadarlija has managed to preserve its bohemian legacy left by the Gypsies/Romani. Back in 1830, the free-spirited Gypsies/Romani were the original founders of the Bohemianesque quarter of Skadarlija. Unbeknownst to them, it would become an integral part of Belgrade and the second most visited attraction in the city.

The pedestrian street stretches for less than half a kilometer so it didn't take long for me to walk its length. It was just as well as it gave me the chance to discover the neighborhood itself. Skadarlija is home to a few artsy shops, vintage-inspired cafes and raggedy houses. As a first-timer, I got the impression that the soul of Belgrade lived and thrived in Skadarlija!

GET YOUR SHOPPING ON

Knez Mihailova is the main shopping street in the city center. Also a pedestrian street but much less charming, Knez Mihailova is where all the international brands and shops can be found including an ultra-modern shopping mall, Rajiceva, at one end of the street.

I was there in late-September when the weather was still pleasantly warm and the street was filled with stylish people (walking their handsome dogs), snack stands (get some popcorn!), street performers, hopeful artists and teenagers dressed to impress.

I ended up here every night not to shop but, rather, to simply take in the lively atmosphere. This pedestrian street was always packed with people! It was obvious strutting along Knez Mihailova street at night was a favourite pastime for Belgraders.

AN URBAN OASIS

As a self-proclaimed “City Girl”, I totally enjoy exploring a city for hours on end. That being said, my idea of a perfect city also has loads of green space to offer much-needed solace from the urban grind. And why not add a beach to that perfect mix? Enter Ada Ciganlija, a vast public park/beach set along the shores of the man-made Sava Lake.

Ada Ciganlija is where urbanites get their fix of clean oxygen and Vitamin C. In seeing a few last lingering bikini-clad sunbathers in late-September, it's no surprise the pebble beach is said to be swarming during the hot and steamy Summer months.

Ada Ciganlija is an urban oasis serving up a plate of outdoorsy delicacies. The boardwalk is nicely set up with restaurants offering international menus, a handful of trendy bars playing the latest hits and a few ice cream vendors (an essential part of any beach).

Parasols and lounge chairs are available (for rent?) for beach-combers. Picnic tables randomly scattered around beckon passersby to enjoy a homemade meal in the park. As for me, I chose the latter and sat myself on a picnic bench to watch the world go by.

Fun tip: The big BELGRADE sign in red and white letters is at the entrance of the park to Ada Ciganlija. It makes for a fun photo op!

STROLL ALONG THE SAVA RIVER

Thankfully, the city was smart enough to include a paved walking/cycling path along the river stretching for kilometers on end. After spending a few hours enjoying some farniente at Ada Ciganlija, I decided to walk back to the city along the Sava River. Along the way, I took in a local scene: men, fishing rod in hand, patiently waiting to snag a fresh catch. I also spotted  several floating river bars (called “splavs” - popular in Belgrade) getting ready to receive the nocturnal party crowds. In the distance, Belgrade lit up while the sun set.

It was the perfect end to a perfect day!

STREET ART IN SAVAMALA

Given Belgrade's reputation for being bland and grey (no thanks to its Communist past), some of its residents took it upon themselves to spruce up one of its less-desirable neighborhoods by asking street artists to embellish the decrepit buildings. The result is a hodgepodge of amateur graffiti, artistic murals and spray-painted tags rendering Savamala the most creative quarter of Belgrade. It's also here where a few funky, alternative bars have taken up residency attracting hipsters, underdogs, dancing queens and bar flyers - a patchwork of the city’s young, vibrant spirit.

Savamala is grungy to say the least but I sensed its walls spoke of hope and pain, of struggles and triumphs - the signs of a city slowly going through a decidedly transformative phase.

Read also: A Crazy Medley of Street Art in Belgrade

BELGRADE FORTRESS & KALEMEGDAN PARK

Belgrade Fortress sits atop a hill (citadel) at the confluence of the legendary Danube River and the Sava River. The few remaining original relics of the fortress are several centuries old but the wall itself has been built and rebuilt numerous times throughout the years. Nonetheless, it remains Belgrade’s oldest historical site and its number one tourist attraction.

As soon as the sun sets, both Kalemegdan Park and the fortress (entrance is free) are a magnet for families and couples (and singles!) alike wanting to take an evening stroll or simply sit on the stone walls. This is the best place to take in the views of Lower Belgrade and leafy New Belgrade across the river.

It’s also the perfect place to watch the sunset. The park is right next to the city center, more specifically at the end of Knez Mihailova street, making it an easy add-on to a day of sightseeing (or shopping).

BAJLONI FARMERS’ MARKET

As an avid seeker of local markets, I was really happy to stumble across Bajloni Farmers’ Market. Here, you’ll find a vast selection of fresh fruits and vegetables all grown locally in the Serbian countryside. The terracotta-roof houses were a lovely backdrop for the rows and rows of stalls brimming with produce, baskets of brightly-hued flowers and a whole lot of hot chili peppers!

ORTHODOX CHURCHES OF BELGRADE

A few churches are scattered in and around the city but the most historically-significant church in Belgrade is the Church of Saint-Sava named after the saint who founded the Serbian Orthodox Church. The monolithic church, built at the exact location where Saint Sava's remains were burnt in 1595, is said to be one of the largest in the world.

Although the exterior looked rather modest, the recently-renovated interior was absolutely jaw-dropping! Every wall and all the domed ceilings are  covered in intricately detailed, gold-lacquered frescoes. It was my first time visiting an Orthodox Church and, I must say, I was impressed!

The other popular church in Belgrade is Saint-Mark's Orthodox Church. I didn’t go inside but I was struck by how different the architecture was. Although not exceptionally old, Saint-Mark’s Orthodox Church was built as early as 1940 in a beautiful Serbo-Byzantine style - something I hadn't seen before. Again, both churches are within walking distance to the city center making it easy to check off the list of things to see in Belgrade.

That’s the end of my two days in Belgrade. Serbia was the jumping off point of my tour of the Balkans and my first time in this region. I have to say, the bar was set pretty high. Belgrade might be bold and gritty but I found it to be equally charming and captivating.