A celebration at the border of India and Pakistan seems highly unlikely given the complex history of these two countries. But, I assure you, a celebration does take place every evening. Right before sunset, hundreds of visitors (mostly locals) rush to fill up the bleachers to witness a dance like not other. You won't believe this!
A CELEBRATION AT THE BORDER OF INDIA AND PAKISTAN
The celebration takes place at the Wagah border with India on one side and Pakistan on the other. It's the Border Security Force (BSF) that performs on the Indian side. Dressed in their official uniforms, heads topped with red plumed hats, officers of the Border Security Force get prepped every evening for the 'dance-off'. Technically, it's not a dance-off, I just like calling it that. It's actually the official ceremony of the lowering of the flags performed by each country at the same time after sunset. The celebration has been taking place since 1959.
The 'dance-off' is a friendly exchange of acrobatic high-kicks and swift pirouettes while the band plays popping tunes. The choreography has soldiers on both sides defiantly showing off their most elaborate dance moves. The very animated celebration incites attendees from each country to yell, roar and whistle in encouragement. The booing starts once the rival country takes the stage. The atmosphere was so infectious I sang along....in Hindi (lol). It was so much fun - I felt like I was at a rock concert!
After almost one hour of theatrics and highly-skilled dance moves, it was time for each side to lower their respective flags and close the border gates. Suddenly, the previously raucous crowds went silent as a sign of respect. Once both flags were completely lowered, everyone rushed from the bleachers down to where the officers were.
People queued up to have their pictures taken with the officers as if they were celebrities. Surprisingly, the officers were very friendly. They smiled for the cameras and shook hands with everyone. It was so strange and incredible at the same time. This celebration at the Wagah border was a highlight of my trip in India!
It's important to mention there was a suicide bombing in November 2014 (just a few weeks before I went) on the Pakistani side. The bombing killed more than 50 people and injuring hundreds. I don't know how it's organized on the Pakistani side, but I can confirm that security is tight on the Indian side. To get to the actual border, I had to pass frequent check points, several metal detectors and manual pat downs (done by women for women).
The guards were so vigilant they even took away my friend's lighter to be returned after the celebration. Bags were thoroughly checked or taken away if they were bigger than the permitted size. The parking lot is about 2 km from the actual border preventing any sort of unauthorized vehicle from entering the premises. Everyone is obliged to make their way on foot to the border.
The thought of a threat did linger in the back of my mind but that subsided as soon as the crowds started to roar. My worries were drowned by the blasting music. Eventually, I was more excited than anything else.
If ever you're in Amritsar (in the state of Punjab), don't hesitate to hire a collective taxi to take you to the celebration at the border of India and Pakistan. The experience was like no other!
Have you heard of this celebration? Is this something you would attend?
26 Responses
Sheena Leong
I attended the ceremony at Wagah on my trip to India 2 years & loved it too – it was so much fun! I lost all my photos though (robbed on night train) so this brought back a lot of great memories. You describe it well, it’s like I was there again & I hope to be again one day 🙂
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
We were there two years ago as well – maybe we were in the same crowd! 😉
Gel
this looked totally fun! And the dance-off the you mentioned seemed to be something worthwhile to observe and participate too.
Stephanie Frias
I’ve never heard of anything like this, I would definitely hang around to witness this display if the timing was right. It’s obvious from the grin on your face that you got a real kick out of this! The photos are neat and I only wish that you had a video, so I could fully experience it with you. Thanks for sharing!
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
I’m pretty sure we have a video but I can’t find it! Will definitely post it if I do. 🙂
Wanderlust Vegans
That looks pretty intense with the rivalry. What a crazy event to do every day. It seems like it would be kind of intimidating to attend as an outsider.
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
It wasn’t intimidating at all! We would usually be the center of attraction in India simply because we were Westerners but at this event all the excitement went towards the celebration and the guards so we felt like part of the crowd!
Colleen
What a thrilling experience!!! How cool to see a ceremony (errr dance off) from the 1950s! I really loved this post and can’t wait to read more of your adventures in India! Safe travels
Latitude Unknown
Awesome! I didn’t even know this was a thing (military dance-offs), but it looks amazing!! Thanks so much for sharing!
Pack Your Baguios
This sounds like the kind of random event that I love to attend. I would definitely make the trip to see this nightly dance-off!
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
I’m sure you would enjoy it! 🙂
Lydia@Lifeuntraveled.com
There’s no winner (or loser for that matter) as it’s mostly to outdo the other side with their theatrics but it was so much fun!!
Spendlifetraveling.com
I had seen a video of this as well somewhere. Thanks for sharing this, it looks and sounds like a very unique experience! 🙂